Two Larger-than-life Days at Fasnacht: Carnival in Basel, Switzerland

AN EPIC BUILD UP TO FASNACHT IN SWITZERLAND

For years, Corinne has been telling me about Fasnacht, Switzerland’s unique version of carnival which plays out across the country in late winter. For the same amount of time, I have been eager to be in the right place at the right time to witness this debauchery in person.

This year, I finally got my chance to go to one of the two largest carnival celebrations in Switzerland, Basler Fasnacht. The entire experience exceeded my already high expectations, and I am still pulling confetti out of everything I own as I write this over a month later. Fasnacht is now my favorite holiday in Switzerland, and I hope you enjoy joining us as we share our two larger than life days in the Cantons of Basel-Land and Basel-Stadt!

Starting Small with the Local Umzug

So many fantastic costumes during the Oberdorf Umzug. Unfortunately, we spent more time enjoying the confetti and flying treats than taking pictures

Two loops with blasting music from a half dozen marching bands in full costume, confetti everywhere (including straight down the back of my shirt), fruit and candy a-flying! While fairly small, Fasnacht in Oberdorf did not disappoint, the parade floats were detailed, the bands were excellent, and I even saw a few rutabagas being thrown around... I suppose I wouldn’t mind a free rutabaga… Several confetti bombs to the face were a small price to pay for pockets stuffed with delicious treats and an excellent show of community.

On the first Sunday after Ash Wednesday, there are Fasnacht parades or Umzug in towns and villages across Basel-Land. Basel-Land short for Basel-Landschaft is one of Switzerland’s half-cantons which, in 1833 violently rose up to win their independence from the now half-canton of Basel-Stadt or the city of Basel.

This being my first Fasnacht, and anticipating a long couple of days, we decided to start off small. We and some friends posted up along the parade route in the tiny village of Oberdorf and, as the first bands and floats came around the corner, it was immediately clear that Fasnacht was going to be great fun.

The closest thing we have to Fasnacht in the US (other than Mardi Gras in New Orleans, of course) is probably Halloween. Beyond the costumes and the candy, I think the underlying idea of breaking out of social norms once a year was traditionally the same.

While trick or treat has turned into more treat than trick these days, Fasnacht still provides an equal weight. Perhaps the way things should be. What kid doesn’t want a free pass to blast their teacher in the face with confetti once a year?

After wandering the post-Umzug afterparty in the village center, we munched on some of our sweet treats then waved goodbye to our friends and Oberdorf. Soon we would be on to our next fiery engagement, Chienbäse in Liestal, the capital of Basel-Land.

Playing with Fire in Liestal, the Capital of Basel-Land

Just after dark, we alongside thousands of other spectators wadded through ankle deep confetti, evidence of the much larger Liestal Umzug earlier in the day, to line up outside the Törli, Liestal’s Medieval town gate, in anticipation of Chienbäse. This evening parade, going on in Liestal in one form or another since the 16th Century must be seen to be believed.

Since taking on its current form in 1869, every year, the bravest locals in all of Switzerland heave flaming torches, in some cases weighing in excess of 90 kgs (about 200 lbs) onto their backs and march through the town gates and into the Medieval town center. While the torches on their own would be quite impressive, this really isn’t enough fire for the pyromaniacs of Liestal… so, in addition to the torches, entire teams work together to drag proper bonfires lit on top of carts along the same route.

Looking down on the crowds gathered outside the Liestal Törli as massive torches are marched straight through the gate and into the town center

How the town has not burned to the ground over the last 150 years is a real mystery to me. The flames shoot higher than some of the buildings and are hot enough to cook a bratwurst from a distance. Yet, somehow, this doesn’t stop the massive crowds from pushing in so close that they need to turn their backs to the flames so as not to get burnt…

Inside the town center, with its narrow streets, it must be like an oven. As the carts pass through the town gate, fire fighters spray down the buildings incidentally turning the already super-heated town center into a veritable open-air sauna.

I am not sure how much alcohol it takes to get to the point in the night where you think to yourself: ‘You know what sounds cool right now? Getting cooked alive like a little human bratwurst surrounded by 5000 of my closest friends!’ But perhaps this is just normal for the Swiss whose comfort with discomfort seems to be generally far higher than mine.

Thankfully, Corinne’s mom booked us all a rooftop viewing spot for the evening which made for a much cooler and more pleasant Chienbäse experience. After the last torch passed through the tower, we headed off to bed, fingers crossed that Liestal would still be standing in the morning.

The Express Train to Basel’s Morgestraich

On the Express 3 AM Train to Morgestraich in Basel. It's a pretty rare sight to see Swiss German written anywhere let alone on the train

Morgestraich is quite hard to explain, the traditional opening to Fasnacht in Basel-Stadt falls somewhere between parade and organized chaos. Rather than the typical parade line-up, just before 4 am, over 10,000 costumed participants, mostly members of large vereins or social clubs, meet up all over the city. From lights out until dawn, they march to fife and drum, pulling giant hand-painted lanterns covered in scenes of political satire through the entire city, back and forth across the Rhein, and up and down every step of the steep old town.

Each group has their own path which results in what I can only describe as an organic weaving of humanity as different groups pass one another throughout the entire night. As a spectator, you are often caught in the middle. In combination with sleep deprivation, it feels like a fever dream enveloped in a sea of music, light, and costume. I have really never experienced anything like it in my life.

Sleep is not really a part of the Fasnacht vocabulary so, about 4 hours later we were out of bed and pulling on our smokey, confetti-filled, clothes to catch the 3 am express train into the city and Canton of Basel-Stadt. At 4 am, on the dot, all of the lights in Basel’s old town are extinguished and so begins Morgestraich!

Morgestraich has an interesting history of social dissidence that dates back to the mid-1800s when there were heavy restrictions on carnival activities in Basel and street parades faced an all-out ban. The first Morgestraich was illegally organized in 1833 and the annual event became legal two years later. In those years, Morgestraich had a closer resemblance to Chienbäse in Liestal as pitch torches were carried throughout the old town center alongside the fife and drum. Recognizing the unbelievable fire risk, authorities banned the torches in 1845. In their place came the hand-painted lanterns that characterize the modern Morgestraich.

Unfortunately, between my challenges with Swiss German and some highly local topics, much of the political satire and pop-culture at Morgestraich was lost on me. I do know that the distasteful conversion of an old Basel theater into a public swimming pool was one of the year’s hot topics alongside more common climate change themes and some national politics. Regardless of your understanding, the lanterns are impressively decorated, pretty to look at, and are often quite comical.

A selection of lanterns with a wide range of political and pop-cultre themes all found at Morgestraich 2024 in Basel

Fasnacht, a foodie paradise

After about an hour of walking around Morgestraich, we were pretty sleep deprived and hungry. We popped into one of the hundreds of bars and restaurants that black out their windows but otherwise stay open throughout Fasnacht to serve traditional dishes. In addition to the ever-present onion pie, local specialties include Basler Mehlsuppe, a delightfully simple and delicious brown soup made from broth and flour, and the Basler Fastenwähe, a pretzel-like bread covered in cumin seeds.

If you are looking for something a bit sweeter, look no further than Fasnachtschüechli. While not really served at Fasnacht events, these unbelievably light and delicious fritters doused in powdered sugar are omni-present in grocery stores leading up to Fasnacht and they happen to be my absolute favorite Fasnacht treat. Unfortunately, one look at the calorie content of these super light treats might put you off… it remains rather unclear to me how these calorie bombs have been around so long and yet world hunger still exists in 2024.

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end

While Morgestraich represents the very beginning of Basler Fasnacht which continues non-stop for a full 72 hours, we were exhausted and called it quits around 7 am.

The two largest Fasnacht events in Basel and Lucerne are so popular in Switzerland that they don’t just get television airtime, they get their own television channel. Likewise, all the events we went to attracted huge (and in some cases, rather drunken) crowds. If this is not really your cup of tea, I completely understand but I would still say, it’s worth it to go once if you can.

Pictures don’t really do any of these events justice. There amidst the throngs of people and the loud drums you can almost imagine the heartbeat of Switzerland and I don’t think there is really anything else like it in the country.

If you enjoyed our trips to Basel-Land and Basel-Stadt, you might enjoy the other articles in our series One Year: 26 Cantons where we explore all the Swiss Cantons in 2024.

Until next time, gute Reise, and feel free to leave your comments on our social media!